Description

Ease, coherency, virtually unlimited full-range dynamics, high resolution, transparency, and natural tonality are the core traits pursued.

"Full-range" with a proviso; to some what is full-range covers down to or even below 10Hz at full click, but in my use of the term I "merely" refer to honest 20-25Hz, which my corner-loaded tapped horn subs will be able to achieve up to +125dB's - at the listening position. I never use their full SPL envelope even when being "liberal" with the volume control, but that's the whole point behind ample headroom: it translates into absolute effortlessness at any desired volume, while also making you more comfortable at higher SPL's (but be sure to protect your hearing and avoid extended exposure to higher SPL's). 

Some may ask: why go with a pair of active, dutch PA/jazz club main speakers from 1990 in a home audio setup? Looking at the driver implementation it becomes clear these aren't your ordinary PA-fare; a horn-loaded high sensitivity 20 pound planar magnetic driver from 1kHz on up is very much the heart of the sound in conjunction with a massively built 15" woofer/mid. The PMS5000 class A/B amp/analogue filter module takes up the whole backside of the speaker and is equally a testament to built quality and design prowess. The sound quality from this speaker system + subs impresses in most any audible aspect, absolutely effortless at that, and at a price level that calls for one to self-scrutinize when comparing them to "high-end" speakers/subs costing a downright fortune. 

So, what's the catch? Mainly it boils down to looks, size and conjecture. Aesthetics are very important to many audiophiles, more so than many will admit, and pro speakers with rugged (blue) industrial looks don't appeal to audiophiles with interior decoration demands, be they self-inflicted or by their spouse. Even if it doesn't concern interior design audiophiles often want or expect their speakers to have a particular "audiophile" look, which typically translates into a slender and deep enclosure with smaller, inefficient drive units. Finish-wise high gloss lacquer surfaces with (concealed) wood or other beneath it, are very popular. That's HiFi speaker looks in a nutshell. 

Size and preconceptions: audiophiles at large would rather pay dearly for smaller high-end category speakers than have much larger, cheaper and less "fancy" looking alternatives with pro or DIY origins in their homes. It feeds the association that high-end speakers of limited size are refined, cultivated, voiced-by-ear and naturally adapted to home environments, whereas pro segment speakers and horn-based subs are expected to be coarse sounding brutes that are only about playing hellishly loud. High level SPL and durability is a factor for sure, but some pro designs truly excel in sound quality in addition - something audiophiles generally tend to be in denial over. For those with an open mind and who can cut loose conjecture and vanity it's about letting physics have its say, acknowledging excellent design, built quality and proper implementation - regardless of the segment origins of the products. 

The fact of the matter is that with care taken implementing an active speaker system like the SA4525 + subs they will serve up a sound that in core aspects obliterates most any lower eff. high-end speakers. Add to that a great source/DAC, care taken with cables, wall power, coupling/decoupling and acoustics - something, I take it, most audiophiles wouldn't fully consider with this segment of speakers - and you'll end up having a speaker + gear package with no severe limitations in most aspects of sound reproduction. 
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Room Details

Dimensions: 19’ × 16’  Medium
Ceiling: 8’


Components Toggle details

    • The t.racks Power Conditioner 12
    Transformer-based voltage regulator. Used with music server, DSP and DAC.
    • Delock RJ45 insulator (62619)
    Network surge protector. Used over the music server Ethernet input.
    • Marian Seraph D4
    Digital AES/EBU output pro soundcard, 24-bit/192kHz with WordClock input. Used in a DIY Windows 10 Pro 64-bit music server. JRiver MC35 playback software. Fidelizer Pro. Local files on NVMe M.2 drives, and streaming via Qobuz (primary) and Tidal (secondary).
    • NuPrime Evolution DAC-2
    DAC/preamp with digitally controlled, analogue volume control.
    • Xilica XP-3060
    Digital crossover, 3 inputs and 6 outputs
    • MC² Audio S800
    2 x 475W/8 ohm / 950W/4 ohm class A/B fully differential balanced studio amp, driving the tapped horn subs.
    • Stage Accompany SA4525 Blue Box©
    Fully renovated 2-way active, 185 lbs PA system with the SA8525 planar magnetic HF driver and SA1503 15" woofer. PMS5000 module includes an active, analogue 4th order Bessel XO and two class A/B power amp channels (300W(LF), 300W(HF)), all microprocessor controlled (out of the signal path). Placed on custom made, 165 lbs sand-filled stands. 
    High-passed at 75Hz and sub-augmented below that with dual tapped horn subs. 
    • MicroWrecker Tapped horn
    Tapped horn subwoofer x 2, ~23Hz tune with 15" B&C 15TBX100 driver. 20 cubic feet volume per cab. 97dB sensitivity. Covering 20 to ~75Hz. BW6 HP and LR6 LP.
    • AST (Advanced Silver Technology) XLR interconnect
    0.55mm pure silver solid core wire with teflon tube insulator. Fed between the NuPrime Evolution DAC-2 XLR output and Xilica DSP XLR input.
    • Mundorf Silver/gold XLR
    XLR Interconnects, with Neutrik connectors. Teflon insulated AWG 20, 99% silver/1% gold solid-core conductor, braided. Fed between the Xilica DSP stereo output 1 and 2  to the MC² Audio S800 power amp driving the subs, and finally as the AES/EBU digital cable from the Marian sound card digital output to the DAC.
    • Cordial CLS 425
    Subwoofer cable with Speakon connectors. 4 x 13 AWG stranded copper cable.

Comments 12

@phusis 

I'm running my system actively, using digital active crossovers and equalization via the HDMI output of my Mac Mini. It's definitely not high-end. The speaker arrangement is unorthodox. I'm using a matrix of 3 speakers for everything above 220Hz. These are all right next to each other, at 1 foot center to center distance, and all mounted on a single 2' x 4' board. The drivers are 10" midwoofers - open baffle, placed close to the back wall (because I have to) with absorber panels behind them. The 10" woofers go up to about 1200Hz, where they cross over to some horns, which are PT waveguide clones with JBL 2426H compression drivers placed directly above the midwoofers on the same baffle. There are capacitors on the horn drivers, which keep them safe and act as a pretty good EQ for the constant directivity waveguides, and keep amplifier hiss below audibility. 
My 3 speaker array, it achieves a wide soundstage through crosstalk reduction, which works better than I expected. The array mix is L-R, L+R, R-L. The idea was I wanted a center channel, and was wondering how much stereo effect I could retrieve with the side channels that didn't duplicate the center imaged sounds. I thought it might work with the speakers pretty close together, and it works really well! The reason I'm using the direct radiator 10" midwoofers is that I can't get a horn small enough to fit the 1 foot spacing. My calculations suggest that the wider spaced horns at 2' center to center spacing could still produce a wide stereo soundstage. I experimented with spacing the midwoofers futher apart than the tweeters, but that sounded odd. Center panned sounds did not seamlessly match side panned sounds. I'm wondering though if I could do a partial horn loading by placing all 3 woofers in a slot. So, they'd be loaded vertically but not horizontally. I've seen other manufacturers do things somewhat like this. I think Oswald Mills has a speaker that has wings going off the woofer that tilt to lightly load the woofer horizontally but not vertically. 
For the bass I have some corner horns, which are comprised of four cabinets stacked on top of each other. They're triangular shaped to fit in the corner, and use a split path folded 6' long horn. Each are driven by an 18" woofer. These are limited in the bottom end to about 30Hz, mostly due to the small backchamber size, according to hornresp simulations. They also have a problem with cancelation and resonance somewhere around 80hz. I don't fully understand this yet, but it seems to be a problem with the horn mouth being too narrow for the length of the horn, which has about a 6' path length. These bass horn stacks have a cabinet in the middle which contains a 2' long midbass horn that was designed to cover 200 to 2000Hz. This also has a coaxial tweeter horn right in the middle of it. These horns have problems, as you can imaging, with very uneven dispersion, with the midbass horn getting very narrow at 2000Hz, and then the tweeter starting out very wide above that. I did some testing to see what the midbass horn would do down in to the bass range, and of course it falls off dramatically below 200Hz. Interestingly, down at 80Hz it shows the same deep cancelation as the bass horns. Perhaps it's because of being right in between the bass horns. Perhaps I need to remove it from the stack and play it on its own to see if that's really the case. 
Anyway, my center array sounds much better in the mids and highs. The bass horns are flawed, but still quite beautiful and majestic. I prefer them to any non-horn loaded bass I've heard so far. With some EQ I've gotten them to measure flat down to 10hz according to REW. That means EQing the higher bass frequencies down a lot and then cranking up the gain for the associated channels on the receiver, which is just an old Denon 7.2 Surround receiver I got for practically nothing on craigslist. Since the horns are so efficient I can get some earth shaking bass and very loud playback without much amp power. I don't do that because on most music I'm perfectly happy if I can get a little below 30Hz before it starts to roll off, and I just feel better about not applying such drastic EQ.

asctim

Owner
@asctim --

Pardon my late reply, and thanks for your remarks! What are the particulars of your horn/direct radiator/horn setup, and are you running it actively or passively? 
Prior to my current main speakers I used passively configured all-horns, Simon Mears Audio Uccello's, which are an homage really to Paul Klipsch's Belle model. They were lovely speakers in places, but the bass horn was too small and had some upper bass peaks (~125Hz region), which marred the overall presentation with a chesty coloration. However it was still a bass horn, and the bass and lower mids quality and that special, organic "twang"-feeling - apart from the peak resonans in the upper bass - was great. Lovely mids too. 
It goes to show though a front loaded bass horn must be non-truncated and load properly in its entire frequency range to uphold both sensitivity and smoothes of response, and that takes more size. Same goes with a midrange horn, ultimately. Large direct radiators instead, as you've found out yourself, are a nice compromise. High sensitivity dual 15" pro mid-woofers per channel, not least high-passed >80Hz, can be seriously imposing in a domestic environment when fired up, but what surprises me is how well-behaved they are up to the ~600Hz range where they're low-passed in my setup to the horns above. More important they, like a mid bass horn, energize the power region in a way that smaller, low eff. woofers simply cannot equal. It just sounds more real. 
Ultimately I'd go with a properly sized, non-truncated midbass horn for the simply reason that I find they sound even better in this region, compared to anything really. The smoothness, clarity, vibrancy, dynamics and natural warmth that can be achieved here is downright outstanding. Someday I'll go there again - properly, without size restrictions. 
I've chosen tapped horns for subs duties being that a non-truncated FLH down to 20-25Hz would be about twice the size of the TH's I have now - simply impractical. Less extension with a non-truncated FLH would do - say, with a tune in the 30-35Hz region. Most importantly, I find, is choosing high eff. sub solutions (>95dB's) to attain the most natural and effortless reproduction, and there's a variety of ways to achieve this. TH's have excursion minima at the tune, and that offers some advantages in the lower octaves in particular, while having, fundamentally, the characteristics of a FLH. 

phusis

I like the looks of this setup, and sure I'd be happy with it too! Like you, I'm running horns top and bottom with direct radiators in the middle. I wanted to be a horn purist, but the middle is logistically tough, and high efficiency direct radiators that aren't pushed too low can definitely keep up in a domestic environment.

asctim

Owner
[deleted]

phusis

Owner
@dadork  --
Pardon my late reply. Oh, I love my Belles SA30, so I can understand why you're very pleased with the SA100 - being they're so very much alike with one being class A and the other A/B. Apart from that they're virtually similar. These amps combine musicality and insight/honesty in quite a singular way, I find. What speakers do you use with the SA100?

phusis

Nice system. How do you like your Belles? I have the SA100 amp and the Belles A28 preamp and think they're great!

dadork

Nice system! How do you like your Belles? I have the SA100 amp and the Belles A28 pre amp and I think they're great.

dadork

You're not the only one that forgets about  posts. I finally saw your response this morning. Thank you for your comments regarding my system. I love my system, if I could, I would be in my listening chair all day everyday.

It's a very rewarding system to listen to, never tiring, and hard to leave. I listen late at night. I wake up in the morning many times and the system is still on, but that is the time when I can enjoy it intensely without disturbing anyone.
 I've just got to keep everything working, which over years in time takes some effort, and a fair amount of money. It's worth it, though.

best regards,
Dan 

islandmandan

Owner
Hello, Dan
Sorry for never getting back to you until now! Thanks, it's a powerful and, sorry to be immodest here, very well sounding setup - I certainly find so myself, and (audio-)friends of mine also. One mayn't expect pro cinema speakers to be a natural fit in a domestic environment, nor 20 cf. tapped horn subs for that matter, but overall the sound is actually very resolved, coherent and tonally quite accurate. 
I looked at your setup as well, and it looks to be an extremely musical system - kudos! At one point I may explore going analogue (i.e.: turntable) again, but that's not in my current plans. 

Regards,
Mikael

phusis

Hello Phusis,

Man, you are one horny dude! I mean that in the best possible way! I think your horns would be a very good fit in my home, with my equipment. I'd enjoy hearing them..

Very nicely done, enjoy! Regards,
Dan

islandmandan

Owner
Hello friend :)

Only just saw you reply - must find out whether there's a notification feature to inform me of incoming posts.

Thanks for your input. I auditioned the Uccello's in Brighton, initially on a Pass First Watt Class-A solid state amp (can't remember the exact model), which sounded very good, and then later via a 300B tube based amp built by David Wright - even better sounding; more full, rounded, "gelassen" (German for relaxed, in a sense), and less mechanical - simply more natural, I'd say. With that in mind I'm certainly aware of the potential here, and an SET will enter my setup eventually for testing - no doubt!

Aah, OMA - I've visited his site many times already, a great inspiration in many ways. Just reading about and seeing pics of The Mill is a joy, as well as knowing about some of Mr. Weiss' past and doings. His blogs are interesting as well - I like reading them. I appreciate his thoughts and views, can't say I always agree on certain aspects, but fundamentally I find what he shares is important and essential. I've seen all videos on OMA as well - don't believe there are any I have missed!

Do you have any experience with Mr. Weiss' products - have you heard some of them? Sadly I haven't. Do you use horns and SET's yourself?

phusis

Friend

SET Amplification and Horns are quite a match!!!!!! There is no doubt you have great components; however, once you start comparing - that's when all the thoughts and considerations begin to flow. Visit Oswalds Mill Audio Website, they have alot of great information about SET Amplication and Horns. Spend time on the entire site and watch the YouTube Videos.

I'm not saying you have to purchase their equipment, but they go into the history of Audio with full explanation. Of course, Budget will dictate your purchases when and if you decide to make a move.

studio1

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