Description

Just sold my 2,60 sq. ft. home and now am temporarily in a 1,100 sq ft apartment. Looking for a large loft to finally have enough room for a true system.
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Components Toggle details

    • Scheu/Eurolab Premier
    Black acrylic
    • Cartridge Man Conductor
    Air bearing parallel tracking linear tonearm.
    • Scheu Tacco
    Scheu's statement arm, some German users have equated it with at least the lower Schroeder arms.
    • Grado The Statement
    The STATEMENT utilizes gold wire coils, a boron cantilever and a diamond cut specially for Grado. All this is hand-assembled within a machined Australian jara wood housing.
    • Cartridge Man Music Maker 3
    The 'MusicMaker' Phono Cartridge is a high-performance variable reluctance device, employing a proprietory extended contact diamond stylus.
    • Denon DL-103D
    Considered by many to be the ultimate of the 103 series. No longer produced.
    • Gram Slee Era Gold mkV
    phono preamp Gain - 41.5 db Input Sensitivity - 2mv to 9mv Input Impedance - 47k and 100pF
    • Gram Slee Elevator EXP
    "Transformerless" stepup MC amp Gain - 24 db Cartridge Loading - 23, 30, 100, 840, 1000, 5100, 47kHz
    • Museatex Bitstream Data II (2005)
    The Melior Bitstream™ Converter has two digital inputs, one fiber optic and one co-axial. Two independent digital sources can be connected to the unit. A front panel membrane switch allows you to choose between the two.
    • Meitner/Melior by Museatex CD-D
    Matching transport to the Museatex Bitstream Data II DAC I have
    • Stevens & Billington TX-102 mkIII
    Transformer Volume Control (TVC) w/ Seiden 20 step attenuator and selector switch.
    • Art Audio PX-25
    Transformer-coupled, zero-feedback, pure Class A triode stereo amplifier. Output Power 6 wpc. Frequency Response 9Hz to 60KHz full rated power. Tube Complement 2 x 6922/6DJ8, 2 x 12BH7, 2 x Mullard CV 378 rectifiers, 2 x KR PX-25 power triodes. This tube has a very similar midrange sound to the 2A3 but much more extended frequency extremes and a lot more power.
    • Welborne Labs DRD 300B
    300B Direct Reactance Drive (DRD)SET Monoblocks using TJ Mesh Plate 300B's and 6N1P driver stage. 7 watts per channel of glorious SET magic and drive.
    • Audion Sterling ETSE EL34 integrated (mkI)
    Class-A, 12 wpc EL34 SET amp. Frequency Response: 14Hz to 35kHz - 3dB. Tube Compliment: 2 x JJ/Tesla Teslovak EL34, cryo'd Russian 6H23n-EB/6922, cryo'd NOS 1950's Tung Sol 5687
    • Cain & Cain IM-Bens
    Fostex FE-168 Sigma 6
    • Cain & Cain Bailey(pair)
    10
    • Paradigm X-30 Subwoofer Crossover
    Built-in active low level high-pass filter Variable 35Hz – 150Hz, 3rd order 18 dB / octave Variable 0 – 180° Phase adjustment
    • Hafler DH-500
    255wpc classic monster amp from the days when Hafler actually owned and ran the company.
    • Cain & Cain Cryo'd Cardas Magnet Wire
    Nothing too special about the particular wire, but it is smooth and detailed sounding. Just plain natural without calling attention to itself.
    • Hammer Dynamics Super-12
    Heavily modified 12
    • DIY AC cord Bob Crump design
    Belden 19364 cable Schurter 4300.0603 IEC connector Pass & Seymour 5266-X thre prong plug
    • DIY Magnet Wire Litz (Super-12's)
    Hammer Dynamics recommended: Woofers(20ga.)- 10 strands of 30 gauge silver-plated copper solid-core wire with Tefzel insulation twisted into a Litz configuration. Tweeters: 4 strands of the same 30 ga. wire twisted in a Litz config.
    • Topaz 2.4kVA Ultra-Isolator Transformers
    I have six of these wired with balanced secondaries for greater noise rejection. One for both tube monoblocks. One for the subwoofer amp. And one for my dac(filtered) and turntable. Common Mode Noise Attenuation - 150dB @ 100kHZ Transverse Mode Noise Attenuation - 65dB @ 100kHZ

Comments 66

Darkmoebius - hope all's well. Check out these links. I found them useful:

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/loudspeakers/SubwooferplacementP1.php

http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf

I repositioned my horn sub from the corner behind the left speaker to midway along the right side wall. Now my set-up looks like one of Raul's subs, to the side and slightly in front of the right main. Initial results are promising. Bass is less boomy, more tuneful and integrates better with the mains.

scott

skushino

Owner
Hi Skushino,

The serial number is #89, so I'm pretty sure it needs the C-lock T circuit upgrade. It is in mint condition. I bought it from a guy who's had it for the last 5 years(bought from original owner) and he says it has performed flawlessly in that time.

I ended up paying $380 for it, which is kind of ridiculous for a 10+ year old transport. But, the cosmetics are stunning, it matches the DAC, and I'm hoping the matching C-Lock transmitter and receiver in the dac will result in great sound.

BTW, if you think we're obsessed, you should have seen this guys "audio shed". I'm betting he had 50-75 amplifiers, preamps, etc. in there. He also has speakers, horns, drivers out the wazoo.

He listens to all of it, studies the design/circuit, upgrades some, sells the others and buys more to check out. Real nice person to hang out with, too. Lots of knowledge.

On another note, I've got 3 or 4 different toslink and coax digital cables on the way via loan from Fatwyre.com. Great service and advice, too. Total cost for checking out some big $$ cables - $35.

darkmoebius

Congrats on the Melior! Is yours stock or modified? Let us know how it works for you.

skushino

Owner
System edited: Added Meitner/Melior by Museatex CD-D transport that matches the Museatex Bitstream Data II DAC I have. Gives an opportunity to compare 75 ohm digital to Toslink cable input.

darkmoebius

Owner
System edited: Just moved my speakers and setup to the otehr side of the room after being told about the midrange suck-out I must be experiencing. Needless to say, they were right. Much more mids and even less bass problems. Just a 24Hz boost and 60Hz suckout. I'm listening to the system at a much lower level of amplification now. Now, it's time for some room treatments - diffusors at the reflection points and bass traps for the corners.

darkmoebius

I don't remember exactly, but I believe Cy's amp is about 20wpc, or almost 6dB more than the Welbornes. That is one of the things that spurred my line of thought about dynamics and headroom. As for the sub, I'm using a Hypex plate amp from the Netherlands. It has what I need, 4th order crossover, bass boost, and sufficient power ~200w if I recall. Yes, the idea of one Seismic Sub in my room was a hurdle, but now that it's here, a second doesn't seem too difficult, if the pair smooths bass response. Mine is located near the left corner, behind the left speaker. Have you compare one vs two subs in your system?

Regards,
scott

skushino

Owner
Skushino, we seem to be following a similar path....

I haven't received my Bitsream yet, it is in transit as we speak. But, from the great things that 've read, I have high expectations.

As for the Welbornes, I've had a few SET amps through here on loan (Cary, ASL, Decware) and the DRD's seem to be the most neutral and pleasing to my ears.

Although, I know exactly what you mean when you could use a little "more power". As of yet, I'm not getting the "startling" or explosive dynamics and speed that I am supposed to with these speakers. It's smooth and engaging as all "getout", just not explosive.

I'm guessing that's a result of having to run my cheap Denon multi-disc cd player directly into the DRD's and sub amp while I'm waiting on a new chasis for my S&B TVC and Museatex + suitable transport(as soon as I find one).

Anyway, I'm holding off on any lasting opinion on any single component until I get some serious room treatments going, a proper equipment rack, and the TVC(+6dB boost) back in my system. It's just too hard to tell right now.

As for adding a second sub, I don't know about that in your system. Dr. Edgar's shop is only 15 minutes away from my house and he has the Southern California Horn Owners group meeting there one a month. I've been a couple of times and heard your Edgarhorns with Seismic Sub, that's about as good as it gets.

In fact, those meetings are what got me started down the road to high(ish) efficiency. I was amazed at how smooth, coherent, and non-shouty those horns were. "Effortless" would be the word I use. Of course, he runs Cy Brennans SET amps, so you might want to consider that in the furture.

Unless you are going to test with a second Seismic(who's got that much room?), anything else is probably going to "muddy the waters".

I don't see a sub amp listed in your system, are you using one? What kind?

darkmoebius

Darkmoebius-

After a closer look at your system, I see that we share some gear in the SETs and DAC. I am a big fan of the modified Bitstream DAC. To my ears, it "vinylizes" my digital playback, rendering notes with a graceful round shape and layers of depth. As for the Welbornes, they are my first SET. I have been pleased with the manner they reproduce music, especially compared to the high-power amp I used to use. But sometimes I wonder if the system would benefit with more power. I know, horns like ours shouldn't need more, but I'm tempted to try a higher-powered SET amp, for even more dynamic range (not the same as loudness). Also, I'm working on integrating my single sub woofer. After reading the article I sent you, I am tempted to borrow my neighbor's sub to expereiment with a second sub to cancel room nodes. Have you compared playback with one and two subs?

Best,
scott

skushino

Nice job on your posts - great detail. I own the same speaker as you know. Three things come to mind,

* Get two packages of Fostex sound reflectors and place 3 in each upper horn and two in each lower. These will stop, I mean stop, your roon overload issues. Email me directly or call for placement of the reflectors.

* Try Paul Speltz's anticable for $10 foot. Money back 30 day trial. You must put this on your Cain's. Ask Terry about this also. Huge step up for very little money.

* Place only one approx 1 inch thick and 8 inch X 6 inch square piece of Dakron in the upper horn sections right behind the drivers. Yes, reach in and play!

* Get a Wright Sound preamp. Use the high gain setting and your system will make you cry over the music's emotion and depth. I am getting wonderful depth.

* One more important thing. Get them off your floor. Isolate them by placing them onto a 2 inch thick maple board or concrete paver. I place those little discs on the underside of the pavers/maple boards so the plateform slides easy. I can then move the speakers back when I need the space for guests or for placement tweeking. These are the same discs advertised to place under piano's for moving/sliding around. This will greatly help reasonances which fuzz your sound now.

I love these speakers. My speaker set up is like yours. I am against the back wall with Echo Buster sound panals behind me. The speakers are 5 feet from the wall behind them however. This greatly helps depth. My room is 22 feet long so I sit about 16 feet back from the speakers. 8 feet apart and toed in slightly. Your right-on about the impact of toe-in.

I am sending you pics.

grannyring

Owner
Hi Audiofankj,

I wish I could brag about how great it sounds, but due to finances, I had to acquire everything in a scattergraph fashion off the used market whenever something I wanted appeared at a good price. In reality, I've only been able to hook most of it up the last few weeks.

First, I got the S&B volume transformers, but didn't have any amps. Then, I got the Graham Slee phono amp + stepup months before the rest of the vinyl system. Had to wait a few months for the bank account to rebound. Then, I got the cartridges in flurry of used buying, but still had to wait a couple more months before getting the turntable and arm.

Finally, I got the DRD amps, but only had one good set of interconnects, so it was strictly cd's.(not to mention, I've never set up a TT and didn't have any of the tools) Then, the Cain & Cain speakers popped up at a "once in a lifetime" price and that seriously broke the bank again.

I still don't have enough interconnects to hook everything up. Or, an amp for the passive Bailey subwoofers. DIY interconnects are next, but it may be while for the sub amp. I'm looking for a tube amp that's got the current and speed capability to keep up with the fullrangers/DRD's. That won't come cheap, but I'm not gonna to settle for less at this point.

What I've heard so far is good, not great, but very promising. I've got to deal with all the room issues before I can even think of attempting to fine tune anything. Any sustained mid or low bass notes cause the room to overload.

But, the IM-Bens sound pretty amazing on their own when driven by the DRD's directly from the cd player. It's very smooth, coherent, and natural. Lot's of detail, but it is subtle, not the etched hyper-reality sometimes mistaken for a good thing. Vocals and wood instruments have "body" and resonance to die for. A super-wide soundstage with the craziest vertical dispersion.

But, I am lacking in the depth department right now. There's no distance between performers or any sense of "the back of the hall" that I have heard on other great systems.

Right now, I assume that is a result of room acoustics. I've got that massive 16' x 6' bare wall six feet behind the speakers. Got to get something up there to break up reflections. Then, there's the 1st reflections and roof/floor problems.

Arrggghh, this is going to take another few months before I'll be able to offer any type of informed opinion. And then there is the whole issue of an equipment rack.

darkmoebius

Very nice looking and I assume sounding system! I bet the vinyl sounds glorious through your system. Enjoy it.

audiofankj

Owner
System edited: Just added isolation transformers to remove AC line noise caused by all the flourescent bulbs we have in our house. Not to mention the regular appliances.

darkmoebius

Owner
Wow, I didn't know a thread would be opened on my system, sorr it took so long to respond. Check out the new pictures of my room.

Grannyring, I would love to trade emails on proper speaker/sub placement. It is easy to get good sound, but fine tuning has really been a lesson in room acoustics.

Using JBL's Room Mode Calculator, I've been able to find all the critical placement spots at the mode nulls. My listening position is now between 20-21 ft.

darkmoebius

Nice system! Those speakers love SET amps as I own the same speakers and drive them with Wright 3.5 monoblocks. I also have the Baily sub. It took me many weeks to get my system to sound the way it does now - glorious! I would be glad to give you some ideas on what works with these IM Ben speakers - tweaks, placement etc..........

I tried SS amps and they did not sound nearly as good as the Wrights. See my Virtual System also. These things below really helped my system as am overjoyed with my system and these IM Ben speakers.

- Fostex sound reflectors from Madisound (placed in the horns) I use 3 in the upper horns and two in the lower.
- Paul Speltz anti-cable (speaker cable)
- Place them on concrete pavers
- My room is close in size to yours. Sit back pretty far from these speakers. At least 10-11 feet. Toe them in slightly.
- Place a little bit of Dakron in the upper horns. Just one piece about 7X9 inches or so.(inch thick)
- SET amps. SET amps, SET amps..............
- I set the sub to come in at 60-70 and turn the output to 11:00 -12:00 noon.

Let me know how it is coming.

Bill

grannyring

Where do you live? I'm coming right over!
What a beautiful system.

boa2

Owner
System edited: Just added the Cain & Cain Bens and two subwoofers last weekend. almost ready to move this rig into the "Done for Now" category, just need a good equipment rack.

darkmoebius

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