Description

My system has continued to evolve over the past 5 years with the one constant being the Rockport Arrakis 2 bi-amplified speakers. They have continued to amaze me that as my electronics have changed and continued to improve, the Arrakis have continued to grow with the electronics as well. Every time I thought I had reached their sonic limit, I have been proven wrong and I am very happy about that.

I have now completely eliminated all tube based components in my system. I have always felt that if I could get the sound that I wanted without tubes, that would be wonderful but I never thought that would be possible. The combination of the TotalDAC digital front end and the Steve Dobbins Beat SE turntable and LT tonearm paired with the CH Precision P1 phono stage, the CH Precision L10 line stage and the CH Precision M10 amplifiers (run in active bi-amplification mode) have achieved this for me. 
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Room Details

Dimensions: 33’ × 20’  X large
Ceiling: 12’


Components Toggle details

    • TotalDAC D1-Streamer MK2
    I just had my TD D1-Streamer upgraded to the latest version TD D1-Streamer MK2 (November 2022).

    In my setup, I use the TotalDAC D1-Player with its silent NAS using solid state drives to store all of my digital music files. Both the D1-Player and the D1-streamer are connected to a Belkin router and I control music selection using an IPAD mini running Roon remote (The D1-Player runs Roon Core and the TotalDAC D1-Streamer is a certified Roon end point).
    • TotalDAC D1-Digital Reclocker MK 2
    I have just had my TotalDAC D1-Digital Reclocker upgraded to the new MK 2 version (November 2021). The Digital Reclocker MK 2 sits between my D1-Streamer MK 2 and the D1-Twelve mono DAC's in my digital front end.
    • TotalDAC D1-Twelve MK3
    I just had my TD D1-Twelve upgraded to the new MK3 version (November 2022).

    The TotalDAC D1-Twelve DAC mk3 is composed of two mono bloc DAC's and a specialized re-clocker, so it is a 3 box system. The D1-Twelve DAC mk3 in combination with the D1-Streamer can play 16 or 24 bit format and 44.1KHz, 48KHz, 88.2KHz, 96KHz, 176.4KHz, 192KHz, and DSD sampling rates.
    • TotalDAC USB Gigafilter
    I have upgraded the TotalDAC USB Cable that connects the TotalDAC server to its internal re clocker to the new TotalDAC USB Gigafilter cable.
    • TotalDac D1-Player
    I have just had my D1-Player upgraded (November 2021) with a custom Live Power supply by TotalDac. The linear power supply also does filtering and cleansing of the Ethernet signal. The connection path for this is an ethernet cable between the NAS and power supply and then another ethernet cable from the outboard power supply to the router. In addition, the NAS is running Roon Core and since the TotalDAC D1-Server is a certified Roon endpoint, I am now using Roon Remote on an IPAD mini and using Roon as my music player (replacing MPAD). The D1-player can also be used as a upnp/dlna server. i am using a Nordost Odin 2 power cord on the D1-Player.
    • TotalDAC D1-Switch
    I just added the new TotalDAC D1-Switch to my digital front end. The switch connects to my Belkin router and now the TD D1-Streamer mk2 and the TD D1-Player connect to the the D1-switch instead of the router. This provides a very significant sonic improvement. I use a Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord for the D1-Switch.
    • Totaldac Live Power supply
    I just added the TotalDAC Live Power supply. This version can be used to provide power to my complete TotalDAC D1-Twelve digital front end - the D1-Streamer, the outboard reclocker and the 2 DAC's. I use a single Nordost Odin Gold power cord for the Live Power supply which is plugged into my Shuyata Everest power conditioner.
    • Nordost Odin Gold power cord
    I am now using a Nordost Odin Gold power cord for my TotalDAC Live power supply. This replaced the already wonderful Nordost Odin 2 power cord.
    • Nordost Valhalla 2 Ethernet Cables (2)
    I am using 2 of the new Nordost Valhalla 2 ethernet cables. The first one connects between the TotalDAC D1-Player and my Belkin router and the second one connects between my TotalDAC D1-Streamer and my Belkin router.
    • Audio Quest Diamond Ethernet Cable
    The AQ Diamond ethernet cable is used to connect the TotalDAC D1-Player to my TotalDAC NAS. This is used for the "dirty" ethernet connection.
    • Paul Hynes SR7 Linear Power Supply
    I have am using 2 of the Hynes Sr7 Linear power supplies. One is used to power the Belkin Router and the second one is used to power my network switch. Both of these replaced the stock switching power supplies that came with the Belkin router and the network switch.

    Both of these power supplies have had the grounding update done to them and are connected to one of my Telos GNR ground noise reducers.
    • Nordost Valhalla 2 Power Cord
    I use 4 Nordost Valhalla 2 power cords in my system.
    I use one of them to power the Beat SE outboard power supply.
    I use 2 of them to power the CH Precision P1 boxes (not the CH X1's).
    I use one of them to power the Nordost QB4 power strip from the Shunyata Everest 8000 power conditioner.
    • Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC
    Nordost Odin 2 Balanced IC's from the TotalDAC D1-Twelve mono DAC's to the CH Precision L1 true monaural preamp.
    • Shunyata Research Everest 8000 Power Distributor
    I am now using the Shunyata Everest 8000 power distributor which has replaced the Shunyata Triton V3 in my system for my front end electronics. I use a Nordost Odin Gold power cord for the Everest.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Power Cord
    I use a Nordost Odin Gold power cord with a 20 amp IEC connector from a wall outlet to power the Shunyata Everest 8000 power conditioner.
    • Nordost QBase QB4
    I am now using a Nordost Qbase QB4 power distribution box powered by a Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord from the Shunyata Everest 8000 power conditioner.
    • Shunyata Research Hydra DPC 6 V3 power conditioner
    I have now added the Shunyata DPC 6 V3 power conditioner for my computer based audio gear. I have my TD D1-Player, my network router, my network switch plugged into the DPC 6. I was very surprised by the improvement the DPC6 V3 made in my system sonics.

    The DPC 6 V3 is powered by an Echole Omnia power cord from a wall outlet.
    • Steve Dobbins The Beat SE
    I have recently replaced my wonderful Steve Dobbins The Beat turntable with Steve's latest turntable, The Beat SE. The Beat SE is a complete and thorough re-design of the original Beat turntable with about 99% of the table different from the original Beat. I have had the original Beat in my system for 8 years and it has undergone several upgrades during this timeframe that always further improved the sonics, but nothing prepared me for the improvement that the Beat SE has made in my analog playback.

    June 29 2021 Update: I just replaced the umbilical power cord connection between the Beat SE power supply and the Beat SE turntable with a new umbilical power cord that Steve worked on with Nordost. The results are simply amazing.

    October 1 2021 Update: Steve has now done further modifications to the Beat SE external power supply with internal wire upgrades with wiring from Nordost as well as adding an external grounding connection that enables me to ground the Beat SE power supply to my CAD GCR reference ground box.
    • Minus K BM-8 Vibration Isolation Platform
    A BM-8 Minus K vibration isolation platform placed underneath
    • Nordost Valhalla 2 Power Cord
    This Valhalla 2 power cord is used on the outboard power supply for The Beat SE turntable. This is plugged into the Nordost QB4 power strip. The QB4 is powered by a Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord which is plugged into the Shunyata Everest 8000 power conditioner.
    • Schroeder LT Tonearm with Magnesium arm tube
    I had my previous Schroeder LT tonearm with wood arm tube modified to the even better LT tonearm with Magnesium arm tube. It has the Lyra Olympus SL cartridge mounted on it and it is truly amazing to hear this combination. This arm has replaced the Reed 2A tonearm on my "Beat" turntable. The Olympus SL has never sounded anything like this.

    June 29 2021 Update: I have upgraded the LT arm cartridge mounting plate for my Lyra Atlas SL Lambda to a new one that consists of a carbon fiber top and bottom plate with a copper plate in the middle between the 2 carbon fiber layers.
    • Lyra Olympos SL
    The Lyra Olympos SL MC cartridge is now mounted on my second Schroeder LT tone arm with Magnesium arm tube. A truly great sounding combination.
    • Schroeder LT tone arm with Magenisum arm tube
    This is a new LT tonearm but now with an arm tube made from Magnesium instead of wood. It is a very significant upgrade in sonics. I plan to have my existing LT arm modified to have the Magnesium arm tube as well.
    • Lyra Atlas SL Lambda cartridge
    I have now replaced my wonderful Lyra Etna SL cartridge with the new Lyra Atlas SL Lambda cartridge. My previous experience was that the original Etna SL cartridge was the best sounding of all of the Lyra cartridges. But not any longer. I was fortunate enough to be able to compare the new Lambda versions of the Etna SL and the Atlas SL in my system and the Atlas SL Lambda is simply stunning to hear in my system. The new Lambda Etna SL is also wonderful and better than the original Etna SL, but the Lambda Atlas SL is superior in every way.
    • CH Precision True Dual Monaural P1 phono stage
    I have now upgraded my CH P1/X1 phono stage to the CH Precision True Dual Monaural phono stage. This consists of a P1 for the left channel, a separate P1 for the right channel and 2 of the optional CH X1 power supplies - one for each channel. As good as the stereo P1/X1 was, the true dual monaural P1 phono stage is something very special to hear.

    June 29, 2021 Update: I just replaced the umbilical power cords from the X1 power supplies to the CH P1 phono stage with a new umbilical that Steve worked on with Nordost. A very significant sonic improvement.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Power Cords
    I am now using two of the Nordost Odin Gold Power Cords to power the two CH Precision X1 external power supplies for my CH Precision P1 true dual monaural phono stage.
    • Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC
    I am now using Nordost Odin 2 balanced IC's between the CH Precision P1 true dual monaural phono stage and the CH Precision L1 true dual monaural preamp.
    • Adona Zero GXT Turntable Rack
    Finished in black with a top shelf of 27" in width.
    • Telos Ground Noise Reducer
    I have added two of the Telos GNR (Ground Noise Reducer) units to my system. One of the GNR's is connected to all of my analog front end electronics and the second GNR is used for my digital front end components.
    • Computer Audio Design (CAD) GC3 Ground Controls
    I am now using 2 of the CAD GC3 Ground Controls. One GC3 is used for signal ground with each of my CH Precision M1.1 amplifiers and the second GC3 is used for Earth Ground with my Rockport Arrakis external active crossover.
    • Computer Audio Design (CAD) Ground Control GCR
    I have added the CAD Ground Control Reference (GCR) to my system. This is used for signal grounds for my front end components (CH Precision P1 phono stage, CH Precision L1 line stage and my TotalDAC D1-Twelve digital front end) and also the earth ground for my Shunyata Everest 8000 power distributor.
    • CH Precision L10 True Dual Monaural LInestage
    The new CH Precision L10 True Dual Monaural linestage has replaced my long time reference, the CH Precision L1 true dual monaural linestage. As good as the 4 box version of the CH L1 linestage is, The CH Precision L10 True Dual Monaural (4 box) linestage surpasses it in every audio parameter.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Power Cords
    I am using two of the Nordost Odin Gold Power Cords to power the two CH Precision L10 external power supplies for my CH Precision L10 true dual monaural preamp.
    • CH Precision M10 amplifiers
    I now am using the CH Precision M10 mono block amplifiers. I have 2 of these and I run them in their active bi-amplification mode. These have just replaced (11/30/2021) my wonderful CH Precision M1.1 mono block amplifiers.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Power Cords (4)
    I am using 4 of the Nordost Odin Gold power cords on my CH Precision M10 amps. Each CH M10 amp outboard power supply requires 2 power cords each with 20 amp IEC connectors.
    • Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC
    I use a 9 meter run of Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC's from the CH Precision L1 true dual monaural preamp to the Rockport Arrakis 2 external crossover.
    • Rockport Technologies Arrakis 2 External crossover
    This is the active external crossover for the Rockport Arrakis 2 speaker. It takes the feed from the preamplifier and then splits the signal for the bass drivers and all of the upper frequency drivers.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Power Cord
    I am now using a Nordost Odin Gold power cord on my Rockport Arrakis external crossover. This replaced the already great Nordost Odin 2 power cord.
    • Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC
    I am now using 2 pairs of Nordost Odin 2 XLR IC's to connect the Rockport external crossover to the CH Precision M10 amplifiers.
    • Nordost Odin Gold Speaker Cables
    I am now using 2 pairs of Nordost Odin Gold speaker cables  to bi-amplify the Rockport Arrakis 2 speakers.These replaced 2 pairs of Odin 2 speaker cables.
    • Rockport Arrakis 2
    My speakers are the bi ampified version of the Rockport Arrakis 2 with the active external crossover.  I am driving the speakers with a pair of CH Precision M10 amplifiers run in active bi amplification mode.
    • Furutech GTX/NCF outlets
    I have added 4 of the Furutech GTX/NCF outlets with the GTX outlet Frames and the 105D NCF Carbon Fiber outlet covers. These are used for each of my CH M10 mono block amps and the Rockport Arrakis 2 outboard crossover.
    • Furutech NCF Booster
    I have added three of the Furutech NCF Cable Boosters after some extensive auditioning. I have one of them under the Odin Gold power cord for the Rockport external crossover (IEC end), one under the Odin Gold PC for the TotalDAC Live power supply (IEC end) and the third one under the Odin 2 power cord for the TotalDAC D1-Player (IEC end).
    • REL Acoustics G1 sub bass system Six Pack
    I am now using the REL G1 sub bass system in the REL Six Pack Configuration. The Six Pack Configuration is 6 of the REL G1 subs configured as 2 sub towers of 3 G1's each. One stack of three G1's for the left channel and one stack of three G1's for the right channel. The bottom G1 of each stack is connected to an M10 amplifier that powers the bass drivers of the Rockport Arrakis and the two G1's that sit on top of that stack are daisy chained together. I am using the REL designed Bassline Blue sub cables to connect all of the subs as required. Each of the stacks is located to the outside of the Rockport Arrakis 2 speakers and just about flush with the front baffle of the Arrakis using the same approximate toe in angle as the main speakers.

    To power all of the G1's, I am using 6 Nordost Tyr 2 power cords and 2 custom versions of the Furutech e-TP60 power distributor that uses Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) outlets replacing the stock outlets. I am using 2 Nordost Odin 2 power cords from the wall outlets to each of the Furutech e-TP60 power distributors.

    The REL G1 six pack replaced my previous 2 REL Studio III sub bass systems. 
    • Blinn Double wide component rack
    Blinn double wide component rack with 3" thick walnut stained maple shelving.
    • Silent Running Audio (SRA) Virginia Class amp stands
    I am now using the superb SRA Virginia Class amplifier stands under my CH Precision M10 mono block amplifiers. I also am using the HRS Nimbus footers (1.5" height version) under the M10 amplifiers.
    • HRS SRX with M3X2 isolation base
    I have added 2 of the HRS SRX amp stands with the M3X2 isolation bases with G7 footers, These are for the power supplies of my CH Precision M10 amps.
    • Nordost Sort Kones
    I am now using Nordost Sort Kones under many of my components. I am using a combination of both the BC and TC sort kones. I am using them under all of my TotalDAC digital components - both DACs, the Outboard Reclocker, the Streamer, the Live Power supply, the D1 player and the NAS. I also use them under my Beat SE turntable outboard power supply (not the turntable itself) and my Rockport Arrakis external crossover.
    • Isonic Ultrasonic RCM
    I have added the Isonic ultrasonic RCM. This is a wonderful RCM. I can do up to 10 LP's at once. It doesn't dry the records - but that is simple to do on my Loricraft.
    • Loricraft PRC 4 Deluxe RCM
    Loricraft record cleaning machine that replaced my Audio Desk RCM. I liked how easy the Audio Desk RCM was to use, but after having to replace it 3 times due to defects I decided it was time to replace it. The Loricraft PRC 4 Deluxe seems to do at least as good a job at cleaning and perhaps a little better using the AIVS fluids.
    • Custom LP Record Cabinets
    There are now 3 of these beautiful LP record cabinets that I commissioned a friend to build for me. Its so much easier to find the LP that I am looking for and to put it back than it was with more traditional shelves that I was using before.

Comments 694

Showing all comments by rockitman.

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Looking forward to your impressions on the WW2 era 5R4GY's Albert. Arnie shared his positive experiences with me the other day. I was reluctant to mention yet another rectifier for the Allnic. I mean how many have we all tried ? A ton. These double bottom getter tubes are great.

rockitman

Those tubes will be a revelation Arnie....my prediction. Please let me know if I am wrong. :-)

rockitman

Are those 1986 Philips tubes the ones with blue print ? I have some of those. I think they were my favorite for the small bottle type tubes.

rockitman

I like the current new format. I am sure the bubbling to the top bug can be worked out. I couldn't even update my system on the old format for the past 6 mos. It would prompt me to login then it would error when I went to edit. The admin support told me to wait for this new format.

rockitman

Arnie,

What outputs do you use on your Allnic H5000 DHT phono..XLR or single ended RCA ? TIA

rockitman

Hi Arnie,

I am glad the Valvo's are working out for you. I pulled mine last night to try Mullard Blackburn F32 GZ34's. They sound very good too. I am not offering a comparison to the Valvo's as I want to get a few more days under my belt, then plug the Valvo's back in. I could be happy with either.

I also bought some Holland made late 50's Phillips GZ32's rebranded Telefunken. They are the traditional 300B looking glass bottle. I think I have now explored GZ32 and GZ34 to their fullest extent.

rockitman

I'm looking forward to your impressions. I am tempted to buy another set. I have a sort of Audio Prepper Nervosa Syndrome going on with tubes lately.

rockitman

Where did you pick up the bugle boys ? Not much offered on ebay

rockitman

I also have some GZ34 Mullard F32 series coming made in Blackburn, England. Rectifier rolling is fun.

rockitman

Hi Arnie,

I have been using the Phillips Valvo NOS GZ34, F31 1958 series for a few days now. Better bass than the Bendix 6106 and much better treble. They have transformed the sound and I base this on using the transformer input on the 5000 DHT. These are the closest in sound to the metal based Valvo's which were replaced by them in 1957. Tube World seems to have a stock of them. We can't use the metal base version since our sockets are countersunk into the chassis and the wider metal base will not fit.
https://www.tubeworld.com/index_high.htm

rockitman

Hi Arnie,

I should get the Valvo's mid-next week. I plan to try them right away. I will let you know.

rockitman

Hi Arnie,

After getting the H-5000 manual, it looks like we have another option for rectifier rolling. 5AR4....the GZ34 is the Euro version and according to KS may offer the best sound. They are relatively expensive for rectifier tubes. That said, I picked up a matched pair of NOS PHILLIPS VALVO GZ34's (Made in Holland). They are indirect heated with filament current of 1.9 amps. Scouting for some Mullards but they are even more pricey.

rockitman

Hi Albert,

They appear to sound the same. My main concern is a quiet ha3000 at listening level. With music I don't notice the noise floor so much. When I turn off the music and listen to the noise floor with my ear near the speaker, it is quite prevalent compared to the transformer input. The H5000 is incredibly quiet for a tube stage.

rockitman

Let me know how the Sylvania Nuvistor tubes compare to the stock RCA ones and your view of the sound with and without the HA3000.

One of my stock rca's went bad. I replaced them with RCA JAN Military spec 7895's. They are the quietest ones I have tried. I have consumer grade NOS Sylvania's and the 4 different one's I have tried were all higher in noise floor. This is sort of a bummer. I haven't tried my entire lot of 20 tubes, but will do so. I did find a pair of NOS JAN spec sylvania's and they will ship soon. I think in the end, if you want the best nuvistor tube performance, one needs to go for JAN military spec variants.

rockitman

I am also trying a different brand of Nuvistor. Stock is RCA, I am trying the 6CW4 Sylvania. They have yellow printing on the sides. I added one more sheet of MU under the top of the casing. I had to order more Mu sheets to finish off the double layer shielding.

It is interesting how you find the Bendix to sound better the second time around. I suspect I will find that with the GE's

rockitman

MU metal is a success. Lowered noise floor by at at least 2 dB with .004" metal. I may double it since it is effective.

rockitman

Arnie,

I still plan to try the GE's again. Since they were nos they probably needed some more breakin than the 4 hours I was listening. I just finished modding my HA-3000 casing by covering the inside with MU metal with the idea of reducing interference and hopefully lower the noise floor. We shall see how that works. In the end, I kind of like having two options of gain...one active and the other passive.

rockitman

Peter, that 5db estimate is by putting my ear up to the speaker at listening level volume with no music. It is significant and only noticeable between tracks. Comes with the territory using a separate tube head amp for gain. I plan to use my iPhone to measure the actual spl difference.

rockitman

Alas, I remain divided. Having listened to Clapton Journeyman first issue both with trans first and head amp second. I prefer rock with the head amp. That said, my 10dB noise differential may be off...let's say 5 dB, but the frequency of the added noise is around that of the record surface rolling noise. Clearly the passive trans is quieter. I think I might enjoy the Classical pieces best with the trans, rock and hard jazz with the head amp.. You really need both then you don't have to worry about it...;)

rockitman

H-5000 Rectifier comparo (Indirect Heated)...GE vs Bendix. I have had the H5000 for a couple of months now. The first month running MC tranny input and the last month HA-3000 head amp. I put the NOS GE's in tonight and let them warm for 2 hours. I was using the head amp input and not the direct coupled transformer. I felt the GE to be softer in the bass with an overall drier sound compared to the Bendix which I felt had better defined bass and an overall richer sound with greater presence. I did not do the comparison with trans input.

That said, I have not heard my trans for stereo playback, save for my mono table in over a month. Clearly there has been some break in time. I switched to trans (MC) input bypassing the HA-3000. The trans input bass is much tighter than I remembered...virtually as good as the head amp bass. What's more, the trans input noise floor is close to 10dB less that the head amp at listening level. Using the high gain head amp into MM input accentuated the records surface noise and any pops or ticks. The trans input is spookey CD like background silence. I tink the trans input is more real and musical sounding. It may become my standard, when I though the Head amp input would. Time will tell. When I get more oriented with the current trans sound I will switch back to GE. Based on my comparison using the head amp input...I vote Bendix.

rockitman

Hi Arnie,

I bought a set of the GE's you mention. I have been using the Bendix 6106 since my unit came back from repair. Compared to the stock direct heated triodes, I found the bendix to provide a better grip on the bass. I will have to try the GE's soon.

Regards,

Chris

rockitman

I was listening to my mono record setup via the transformer last night. Jazz horns leading edge transients just sound so good and un edgy. The noise floor is considerably lower using transformer input vs the HA 3000 into the MM. The noise doesn't really exceed the noise from the record surface itself, which is a good thing. Passive devices, like transformers will always be quieter than active gain..but in the end, it's really an non issue considering the gain in dynamic speed, tighter bass and soundstaging via the HA3000. The H5000 continues to amaze.

rockitman

Hi Christian,

Thanks so much for your feedback about the Allnic HA 3000 used in front of the H5000 DHT. I am happy that it is sounding so good in your system.

I visited Albert this weekend and he had recently inserted a HA 3000 into his system as well to see what it does. Albert was using a lower line Purist Audio IC and power cord with the HA 3000 than his normal wonderful Purist 25th Anniversay cables. We could clearly hear a difference in the sonics with and without the HA3000 using the Lyra Atlas cartridge, but I need to do a lengthier listening session in my own system once my H5000 DHT is fully broken in to see if I prefer the sound with the HA 3000 or just direct into the H5000 DHT. Either way, the sound is wonderful.

Thanks,
Arnie

Hi Arnie,

I look at the HA3000 as a supplement to the transformer inputs, not a replacement. The unit keeps getting better. The transformer input allows the music to flow with a natural sense of ease (very real/live sounding). The HA3000 gives a more incisive, faster dynamic presentation. The soundstage definitely grows in width and depth by a significant margin, almost to the point you are enveloped by a blanket of music. I think once you get the H5000 broken in, it's worth the effort to try it in your system.

rockitman

Arnie and Albert,

I would be doing you a disservice if I did not recommend the HA-3000 in front of the H5000. I will give a more detailed write up once it breaks in more on my system thread. In short, the head amp tightens and focuses the bass frequencies more. Surprisingly, the sound stage width and depth significantly increased vs the transformer input. Micro detail is even more prevalent. Transformers being a passive device, there is a bit of signal loss. I feel some micro detail is lost there but is picked up running the head amp. The music seems to have more jump and the tonal balance is a bit more neutral than running via transformers.

It is very sensitive to placement and cable selection. Much to my chagrin, my $10,000/pair Nordost Odin 2 meter interconnect hums with the HA3000. When I use the same cable out of my tape pre, no hum. So I am perplexed. I think that maybe a 2 meter cable is too long from the HA3000 to the H5000. My rca cabling is limted and the Nordost 1.5 meter rca cable is working without any hum. Weird huh ?

rockitman

I just got the HA3000 today. My H5000 doesn't arrive back until tomorrow. I plan on trying the HA-3000 with my SS Pass XP-25 tonight just out of curiosity. Tubes and SS...should make an interesting combo.

rockitman

Yes loading is interesting as the gain/turnover knobs are the only adjustment. I feel that these transformers have a wide latitude and will work well with most LOMC carts. If one decides to use the headlamp via the 48k MM inputs, loading can be done more precisely but of course you bypass the transformer completely. I was concerned that running via transformer, loading would be an issue. It is not.

rockitman

Love the black look of the Adona stand and the H5000 Arnie. I completely agree with your assessment. It will be interesting to see how this unit sounds with the HA-3000 Nuvistor head amp added in the chain. I will report back when I get mine in a week or two.

rockitman

Thanks Arnie..yes Lloyd, I have not updated my system info here on A-gon as of yet (will do soon)...it keeps changing...lol

rockitman

Thanks Arnie...perhaps I should just go Diamond DAC for now and add the Galaxy clock later, which seems to be remove the cover and plug the galaxy clock in (easy button). I want to keep it under $30K for the time being. I suppose after I get used to the dac w/o the galaxy and then add it later, I will better be able to ascertain the improvement of that very expensive kryptonite crystal clock :-)

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Best,

Chris

rockitman

Thanks Arnie...

So you went with the Galaxy Clock option ?

Makes me wonder if the Signature dac with the galaxy clock would sound better than the diamond dac without the galaxy clock. The price would be virtually the same. What are your thought's on that idea ?

rockitman

Hi Babybear,

Love your system. Are you still in love with MSB ? Do you still consider them THE SOTA ? I am starting to think about them for my digital playback.

rockitman